19th of September-Alcobaca

DSC_0031DaVinci has a daughter in Alcobaca and due to the fact that this was on our way we decided to visit this fishing village.

To reach the village we had to sail up the river, so we waited for some fishing boats to arrive and asked them to guide us in.

At first this was going without any problem but at a certain moment we arrived at a sandbank which was no problem for the fishingboat but a little bit to shallow for us and got grounded.

We managed to get a rope from the fishingboat to the voyager, put the engine in full ahead and got from the sandbank again.

After a while we arrived at Alcobaca and anchored in the middle of the river.

This was the first time a salingyacht did visit the village and the local people were very curious and ever day a lot of people did visit our ship.

We got adopted by Manuel Rocha dos Santos and his family for the 8 days we stayed in Alcobaca annd had a great time.

Everyday we had fresh fish from the fishermen,  already cleaned and they refused any payment.

It was one of the highlights of our trip.

 

 

17th of September-Ilheus

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As we mentioned before, there was a problem with our custom papers so we decided to enter the port of Ilheus. Not really a marina but there was a Iatte club. Together with a brasilian yacht we were the only sailing boats at anchor. In tHe commercial port they didn’t really know what to do with us so we had to come back in the afternoon to finish the papers and give them the opportunity to check the proper procedures. In the afternoon the custom officer joined us in the dingy to the voyager and didn’t even want to see the interior of the boat because the dingy ride was to scary for him and he wanted solid earth beneath his feet as soon as possible. But we had our papers and were very happy,THANKS A LOT ILHEUS!

6 th of September – Chapada Diamantina

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Leaving the Voyager at anchor in the bay of Salvador we took the bus for a 6 hours drive to Lincois.

In the bus we met a couple  fr0m France and decide to team up with them.

Arriving at the busstation a local guide, Ernaldo, who also had a little hostel named Zig Zag convinced us that he was the right guy for us.

Due to the fact that he was rather cross-eyed his nickname was Gayo Secco .

The first day we had a roundtrip by car.

After about 15 minutes the car broke down and we all tried to repair it but we did not succeed.

A new car arrived and we continued our trip to the mountains, cristal clear lakes and waterfalls.

We climbed on top of a mountain from which we had a magnificent view.

In the evening we had a great diner in one of the restaurants and did visit a number of bars for drinks and dancing.

From the locals we also got our nicknmaes. Joost was called Captain Caiparinha and Rene Perengue and it was never clear what this meant

The next day we went for a two day hiking trip. We had to climb over rocks , swim across ice cold rivers and lakes to get to the most beautiful locations and waterfalls.

In the night we slept in a cave.

All and all a fantastic expererience.

Here we also met Leonardo Fumes (aka DaVinci). A guy who already travelled for 20 years around the world, mainly in Brasil.

He was interested in sailing and we invited him to join us.

For two months  he sailed with us on the Voyager and became a good friend of us.

3 rd of September 2014 Salvador

 

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Arriving  in Salvador was beautiful. Salvador is a mix of old colonial building styles and modern high rise. Anchored in the old marina in front of the huge elevator we had a perfect view at the cities most elusive barrio. The same night we went to placa vermelho drinking with the locals. Spend all our money and luckily our drinking buddies were chipping in. Ofcourse we told the taxidriver we were broke just a few hundred meters before the marina and had to go to the the boat with the dingy to get his money. we met Wicky the viking with his marlin fishing boat and spend many ours drinking, eating and telling stories. One of his suggestions was to go to Chapada Diamantina to hike in the mountains and see the many waterfalls overthere, which we did but we’ll put that in a seperate post. After returning from Chapada Diamantina we found out there had been a storm and a german behind us kept his boat on 2 buoys and didn’t turn with the rest of the boats and hit us. Luckily not too bad. We tried to get some money from him but did not succeed. After this we left for Itaparica an Island close to Salvador, quit and beautiful beaches.

In every Brazilian port a vessel, also yachts, must report to the capitania. Here in Salvador they made us aware of the fact that our receita (custom) papers were not done in Fernando and that we still had to do that. But the receita in Salvador told us to go back to Recife to arrange this. Via a dutch ex pilot we heard that we could better go to the next port and try to arrange it there with some white lies about our landfall.

So after 3 days Itaparica we headed for Ilheus.

31st of August 2014 Maceio

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As we wanted to visit and see a lot of Brazilian ports our next destination was Maceio about two days sailing from Recife.

This is a small fishery port were we stayed only for 1 night.

Via the local fishing man we loaded 100 liter of diesel which was carried on board in two drums in a rowing boat.

In the evening we visited a local jazzclub with live music.

The next day we bought lobster and shrimps at the local market for another gourmet diner that evening.

On our way again the Salvador.

 

 

3 rd of August 2014 Recife

 

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Leaving Fernando de Noronha we had easterly winds until the last day, about  70 nm before recife we encountered hard ssw winds and it took us an extra day to reach recife. We stayed at yacht club Cabanga. Recife is a big city with lots of african influences and a huge beach called Boa Viagem. Swimming can be dangerous because it’s the one place with sharks. We enjoyed the “foro de un real” and “tessa negra”. Rene went to Pipa to join his family for vacation and Rebecca arrived the next day on Recife airport. We met real nice people and made friends with Paolo from the “old smuggler” and Joao Delmar with his wife who moved from Sao Paolo to Recife. We also met Nestor Faulkner from Argentina, the designer from Delta Yachts. He had some useful information about the Argentinian coast. We also visited Olinda, Praya de dos Carneiros and porto Galinhas. We even took a ride to Caruahu and Gravata. After a month in Recife we had a good taste of tropical Brasil and had a taste for more.

26th of July Fernando de Noronha

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Fernando de Noronha is a tropical paradise 400 NM from the mainland and a national park. It’s very beautiful and friendly. We rented a buggy to explore the island. We found beautiful beaches, mountains and had a swim with dolphins at the bay were our boat was at anchor. We had a great salsa night at one of the local restaurant/bar Consulta next to the colonial palace  and special thanks to the marrocan manager Lili Saadaoui who introduced us to the locals. Although ist was a expensive stay we had a great time.

 

14 July 2014

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After checking the grip files to check the weather forecast we decided the sail south along the coast of Africa and waiting for the south-east trade winds to kick-in.

During this trip we encountered quite some squalls and doldrums and had a lot of benefit from our single handed modification.

To cross the equator and being at the middle of the Atlantic was a very special moment.We also did catch our first fishes. The Dorade do mar.

It must be said a delicious fish and more fresh than this is not possible.10 minutes after we caught the fish we had a delicious tartar followed by an outstanding Dorade steak on our plates.

We have seen amazing skies with low clouds with the sun piercing through.

It was also our longest trip and it took us 12 days to reach Fernando de Noronha, where we dropped our anchor on the 26th of July.

 

28 June 2014

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We made a trip on the island to the Pico del Teide (vulcano), We would not have been surprised to meet captain Kirk fighting some aliens on a far away planet. Made friends with Simon and Kok from the Never Ready and Brian and his wife from the Caitlin of Argyll. They had some good advice and the proper spare parts to secure some potential problems of our stays, thanks a lot guys!

After 10 days at Tenerife it was time to move on.Thanks a lot quancies, you have a beautiful Island

With the wind in the back we are heading for Cabo Verde.

Our top speed was 13.5 knots. Unfortunately the mainsail was chaffing against the spreader and made a small hole in our brand new sail. We were quite upset and hoped that it would be able to repair.

It took us 6 days to get to Sao Vicente, Mindelo. When we arrived the crew of Sea Sheppard helped us mooring and gave us the first advice where to party. It must be said that Mindelo stole our hearts.

We arrived on the 4th of July and on the 5th it was Independence day and the whole city was one big street party with live bands.

Everybody was dancing on the street or having a drink in the local pubs.

Tuga, the port captain repaired our sail and put on an extra protection strip, drove through the city to find protection tube for our stays and all very reasonable price.

We have been invited at peoples home for food and drink and made a lot of friends. We also learned to appreciate the Vino Droque and fresh tuna for 5 euro a kilo.

We hang out with Sea Sheppard crew, especially Beck , one of the captains and Robby, the yacht master  from the  Perseverance, a charter sailing yacht. We had some good times with these guys with long and inspirational discussions on the Voyager.

That’s when we decided to modify our reefing system for single handed sailing. We owe you guys for this great idea.

Joost had a life performance in the Laginha Bar and people are still talking about this, He was recognized on the street.

All and all a great stay and ready for crossing the Big Pond and the Equator.

11 Juni 2014

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Wij zijn  woensdag middag 11 Juni uit Sao Martino do Porto vetrokken richting Tenerife. We hebben een fantastische reis gehad met goeie wind vanuit de juiste richting en zijn met een gemiddelde snelheid van 6 knopen dinsdag 17 June in de jachthaven van Santa Cruz aangekomen. Een prachtige jachthaven in het centrum van de stad.

We blijven hier tot volgende week vrijdag want ik ga maandag weer even naar huis om bij de diploma uitreiking van Robin te kunnen zijn.

Na aankomst in Samta Cruz zijn we natuurlijk even een biertje gaan halen en kwamen in gesprek met enkele Canary pedro’s en een zakenman uit Cordoba. Deze regelde diezelfde avond nog een reservering in het beste restaurant van de stad Los quatros Postes, daar hebben we de volgende dag heerlijk gegeten. Later daarover in het culinaire katern.

Die avond op een groot plein met de lokalen naar Spanje – Chili zitten kijken, aanvankelijk heel gezellig maar wel met een domper dat ze er nu uit liggen, de shirtjes en sjaaltje kunnen ze aan de straatstenen niet meer kwijt.